World-renowned mountaineer Nirmal “Nims Dai” Purja has died following an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan, his expedition company confirmed on Saturday, August 1. The confirmation ends two days of uncertainty since the mountain was struck on Thursday, July 30, killing several members of his international climbing team.
Here is what has been confirmed so far, based on statements from Pakistani authorities, the Alpine Club of Pakistan, and Purja’s company, Elite Exped.
What Happened on Broad Peak
Broad Peak stands at 8,047 meters in Pakistan’s Karakoram range, making it the world’s twelfth-highest mountain. An avalanche struck a ten-member international expedition as the group climbed between Camp II and Camp III, at an altitude of roughly 6,600 meters. Reports on the exact timing have varied slightly between sources, though most place the avalanche in the morning or early afternoon hours of July 30.
According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the expedition included five Nepali climbers led by Purja, along with Pakistani climber Sohail Sakhi, Omani climber Nadhira Al Harthy, American climber Mallory Geis, and Chinese climber Wang Zhong. The team’s tour operator said it had last been in contact with the group that morning.
Notably, several other expeditions had already abandoned their Broad Peak attempts in the days beforehand, citing concerns over heavy recent snowfall. Purja’s team, and Sakhi’s team, were reportedly among the few that remained on the mountain when the avalanche struck.
The Search and Rescue Effort
Poor weather initially delayed helicopter access to the site, slowing the response. Pakistan Army Aviation helicopters eventually transported a three-member civilian rescue team, led by veteran mountaineer Sirbaz Khan, to Broad Peak base camp. From there, the team proceeded on foot toward Camp II, where several bodies were later located.
Some climbers swept up in the avalanche were brought back to base camp through an overland rescue effort, according to Thaneshwar Guragain, general manager of Seven Summit Treks. Search and rescue operations were suspended briefly on Friday due to weather before resuming on Saturday.
The Climbers Involved
Three of the recovered victims have been formally identified. They are Pur Bahadur Gurung, known as “Yukta,” from Nepal; Nadhira Al Harthy of Oman, the first Omani woman to summit Mount Everest; and Mallory Geis, an American climber for whom this was reportedly her first attempt on Broad Peak.
Other members of the expedition initially reported missing alongside Purja included Nepali climbers Kili Pemba Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, Gyalu Sherpa, and Nawang Thindu Sherpa. Identification and confirmation of the remaining climbers’ status is expected to continue as recovery operations proceed, according to Pakistani and Nepali authorities.
Confirmation of Purja’s Death
On Saturday, August 1, Elite Exped announced Purja’s death in a statement shared on Instagram. The company said it was confirming, with profound sadness, that Purja had lost his life following the avalanche, and that other members of the expedition had also not survived.
Elite Exped thanked Pakistani search-and-rescue teams and everyone involved in the recovery effort. The company added that it would make no further public comment beyond information confirmed by relevant authorities, out of respect for the affected families. Purja’s business partner, Mingma David Sherpa, had traveled to Pakistan earlier that day to assist with the response.
Who Was Nirmal Purja
Purja, 43, was widely regarded as one of the most accomplished high-altitude climbers in history. Born in Nepal, he served for years in the British military, including time with the Gurkhas and later the Royal Marines, before turning to full-time mountaineering and guiding in 2018.
He rose to international fame in 2019 after summiting all 14 of the world’s mountains above 8,000 meters in just 189 days, smashing a previous record that had stood at nearly eight years. That feat, known as Project Possible, was later documented in the Netflix film “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible,” released in 2021.
In 2024, Purja repeated the achievement without the use of supplemental oxygen, becoming the fastest climber to complete all 14 peaks in that style. He had been attempting to become the first person in history to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Broad Peak was intended to be the penultimate mountain in that pursuit, with Cho Oyu planned to follow.
In a social media post shared days before the avalanche, Purja wrote that he was asking the mountain for nothing more than safe passage up and back down, adding that he never took a single mountain for granted.
Context Within Himalayan Mountaineering
Broad Peak has claimed lives before. Pakistan’s deadliest modern mountaineering disaster occurred in 2008, when 11 climbers died in an avalanche on nearby K2. This year’s tragedy on Broad Peak now ranks among the most significant losses in recent Karakoram climbing history, both for the number of lives lost and for the prominence of those involved.
News of Purja’s death has drawn tributes from across the international climbing community, reflecting the scale of his influence on high-altitude mountaineering and the visibility he brought to Nepali climbers on the world stage.
A Developing Story
Identification of the remaining climbers and full details of the incident are still being confirmed by Pakistani and Nepali officials. This article reflects the most recent confirmed reporting as of August 1, 2026, and further details may continue to emerge as recovery operations conclude.
Frequently Asked Questions
What happened to Nirmal Purja?
Purja died after an avalanche struck his expedition on Broad Peak in Pakistan on July 30, 2026. His death was confirmed by his company, Elite Exped, on August 1.
What is Broad Peak?
Broad Peak is the world’s twelfth-highest mountain, standing at 8,047 meters in Pakistan’s Karakoram range, near K2.
How many climbers were affected by the avalanche?
The expedition involved ten climbers from multiple countries, including Nepal, Pakistan, Oman, the United States, and China. Several members died in the avalanche.
What was Nirmal Purja known for?
Purja was famous for summiting all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in a record 189 days in 2019, and again without supplemental oxygen in 2024.
Who else died in the Broad Peak avalanche?
Confirmed victims include Pur Bahadur Gurung of Nepal, Nadhira Al Harthy of Oman, and Mallory Geis of the United States, alongside Purja.
Is the investigation into the avalanche still ongoing?
Yes, identification of remaining climbers and full details of the incident are still being confirmed by Pakistani and Nepali authorities.
