Nepal’s Free Peak Policy Is Changing Himalayan Climbing

For decades, Himalayan climbing in Nepal has followed a familiar pattern. A handful of famous peaks—Everest, Ama Dablam, Island Peak—have drawn most of the attention, the crowds, and the investment. Meanwhile, hundreds of equally dramatic mountains stood quietly in the background, visited by few and known by even fewer.

Now, that balance is beginning to shift.

By waiving climbing permit (royalty) fees for 97 Himalayan peaks until July 17, 2027, Nepal has opened a new chapter in mountaineering—one that feels less polished, more uncertain, and undeniably adventurous. For many climbers, it feels like the early days of Himalayan exploration all over again.

What Has Actually Changed?

At first glance, the policy sounds simple. However, its implications are far-reaching.

Traditionally, climbers paid anywhere from USD 500 to over USD 2,000 per person just to secure a permit for a single peak. Under the new policy, that fee is gone for 97 selected mountains, most of them located in Karnali and Sudurpashchim provinces.

As a result, peaks rising well above **6,000 meters—and even past 7,000 meters—**are now financially accessible in a way they never were before. In many cases, climbing these mountains now costs little more than organizing a long, remote trek.

More importantly, this shift signals a clear intention: Nepal wants mountaineering to move beyond Everest.

A New Kind of Himalayan Experience

Unlike the Khumbu region, these newly promoted areas do not offer comfort by default. Instead, they offer something else—space, silence, and uncertainty.

That difference matters.

While popular routes come with fixed ropes, packed trails, and busy base camps, the peaks on this free-permit list often come with none of that. In fact, some have climbed only a handful of times. Others remain virtually untouched.

Because of this, climbers are not just ascending mountains—they are rediscovering what expedition-style mountaineering really means.

The Standout Peaks Climbers Are Watching Closely

Although the policy covers 97 mountains, a few peaks have already emerged as clear favorites due to their height, character, and reputation.

Api Himal (7,132m) – Sudurpashchim

Standing as the highest peak in the region, Api Himal immediately commands respect. Its steep faces and dramatic ridgelines make it a serious technical challenge, even for experienced teams.

Api West (7,076m) – Sudurpashchim

Just next door, Api West offers a quieter alternative. Because it is often overlooked, climbers here experience a rare sense of isolation—something increasingly hard to find in the Himalayas.

Saipal Himal (7,031m) – Sudurpashchim

Few mountains in Nepal feel as mysterious as Saipal. Isolated and visually striking, it has long carried a reputation for difficult access and demanding routes.

Kanjiroba Main (6,883m) – Karnali

Rising above the Dolpo region, Kanjiroba is complex and commanding. Multiple ridges and technical lines make it especially appealing to seasoned alpinists.

Jethi Bahurani (6,850m) – Sudurpashchim

Sharp and alpine in style, this peak offers thrilling climbs and serious exposure—ideal for teams seeking something bold yet relatively unexplored.

Bobaye Peak (6,808m) – Sudurpashchim

For those dreaming of first ascents or new routes, Bobaye Peak represents pure opportunity. Few mountains feel this open-ended anymore.

Ghyambu Peak (5,870m) – Karnali

Lower in height but no less rewarding, Ghyambu Peak is perfect for acclimatization or as an introduction to remote Himalayan climbing.

What “Free” Really Means on the Mountain

While the permit fee is gone, it’s important to understand that the expedition itself is not free.

Yes, climbers save a significant amount by avoiding royalty payments. However, several mandatory costs remain.

For peaks above 6,500 meters, a government Liaison Officer is still required. Additionally, many of these areas fall under Restricted Area Permits (RAPs), especially in places like Humla and Darchula.

On top of that, climbers must pay a garbage deposit, arrange rescue and medical insurance, and fully cover the insurance of Nepali guides and porters.

In other words, the policy lowers the barrier—but it does not remove responsibility.

Here is a list of 97 mountains free to climb in Karnali and Sudurpaschim:

Peak Code	Peak Name	Height (m)	Height (ft)	Range	Province	District
POTA	Pota North	6,182	20,282	Dhaulagiri	Karnali	Dolpa
NORB	Norbu Kang	6,085	19,964	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
KJRM	Kanjiroba Main	6,883	22,582	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
TRIP	Tripura Hiun Chuli	6,553	21,398	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
TSKP	Tso Karpo	6,518	21,398	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
LHAS	Lhashamma	6,412	21,037	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
SHEY	Shey Shikhar	6,139	20,141	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
TSOK	Tso Karpo Khang	6,556	21,509	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
KTOK	Khang Tokal	6,294	20,650	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
KJER	Kanjerawa	6,612	21,693	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
KAGM	Kagmara	5,978	19,613	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
KNGT	Kangfu Gaton/Kanta Gaton	5,916	19,409	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
DOGA	Dogari Himal	6,536	21,444	Dhaulagiri	Karnali	Dolpa/Rukum East
ACHN	Aichyn	6,055	19,865	Chanwathan	Karnali	Humla
ARDN	Ardang	6,034	19,797	Chandi	Karnali	Humla
CHWT	Changwathang	6,125	20,111	Chandi	Karnali	Humla
BIJO	Bijora Hiun Chuli	6,111	20,049	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Jumla
DUDH	Dudh Kundali	6,045	19,833	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Jumla/Dolpa
KASI	Kasi Dalpha	6,386	20,951	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Jumla/Dolpa
BHUL	Bhulu Lhasa	6,102	20,020	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Mugu
KJRN	Kanjiroba North	6,858	22,500	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Mugu/Dolpa
PATR	Patrasai	6,450	21,161	Patrasi	Karnali	Mugu/Dolpa
SANC	Sanctuary Peak	6,207	20,364	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Mugu/Dolpa
KAND	Kande Hiun Chuli	6,627	21,742	Patrasi	Karnali	Mugu/Jumla/Dolpa
SISN	Sisne	5,949	19,190	Sisne Himal	Karnali	Rukum East/Rukum West
NYAL	Nyalu	6,265	20,554	Chandi	Karnali	Humla
PAL1	Palchung I	6,159	20,207	Palchunghamga	Karnali	Dolpa
DANS	Danfe Shail	6,103	20,023	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
KHNG	Khung	6,024	19,764	Palchung	Karnali	Dolpa
LUNG	Lungchhung	6,043	19,826	Palchung	Karnali	Dolpa
MARW	Mariayang West	6,455	21,178	Palchunghamga	Karnali	Dolpa
MARI	Mariyang	6,528	21,417	Palchunghamga	Karnali	Dolpa
SWAK	Swaksa Khang	6,405	21,014	Kanjiroba	Karnali	Dolpa
TNK1	Tankya I	6,305	20,686	Palchung	Karnali	Dolpa
CHND	Chandi Himal	6,096	20,151	Palchung	Karnali	Dolpa
ASJM	Asajya Tuppa	6,265	20,554	Gorakh	Karnali	Humla
GORH	Gorakh Himal	6,092	20,334	Gorakh	Karnali	Humla
GORK	Gorakh Khang	6,054	19,862	Gorakh Himal	Karnali	Humla
CHGL	Changla	6,563	21,532	Changla	Karnali	Humla
LCHC	Lachama Chuli	6,721	22,051	Changla Himal	Karnali	Humla
LCHN	Lachama North	6,628	21,745	Changla	Karnali	Humla
NALA	Nala Kankar	6,062	19,888	Nalakankar	Karnali	Humla
TAKP	Takphu Himal	6,395	20,981	Nalakankar	Karnali	Humla
TAKN	Takphu North	6,142	20,151	Nalakankar	Karnali	Humla
TILK	Til Khang	6,369	20,896	Nalakankar	Karnali	Humla
YARA	Yara Chuli	6,236	20,459	Palchung	Karnali	Mugu/Dolpa
CHGD	Changdi	6,623	21,729	Palchung	Karnali	Mugu
KAIM	Kaipuchonam Main	6,329	20,764	Palchung	Karnali	Mugu
KNTE	Kanti East	6,516	21,378	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
KNTH	Kanti Himal	6,859	22,503	Kanti Himal	Karnali	Mugu
KAPT	Khaptang	5,965	19,570	Kanti Himal	Karnali	Mugu
KOGN	Kogi Khang North	6,275	20,587	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
KOJC	Kojichwa Chuli	6,439	21,125	Kanti Himal	Karnali	Mugu
KOJS	Kojichwa South	6,264	20,551	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
MAYT	Mayung Thang Khang	6,449	21,158	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
TAKL	Takla Khang	6,276	20,591	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
ASJW	Asajya Tuppa West	6,055	19,865	Gorakh	Karnali	Humla
JYAG	Jyangche	5,893	19,334	Gautam	Karnali	Dolpa
CHBL	Chanabolo	5,897	19,347	Gautam	Karnali	Dolpa
GHYM	Ghyambu Peak	5,870	19,259	Gautam	Karnali	Dolpa
TINJ	Tinje Peak	5,984	19,633	Gautam	Karnali	Dolpa
CHKH	Changla Khang	6,581	21,591	Changla	Karnali	Humla
CHNW	Changla Khang North West	6,233	20,449	Changla	Karnali	Humla
CHDE	Changdi East	6,328	20,761	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
KANW	Kaipuchonam North West	6,218	20,400	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
KAIW	Kaipuchonam West	6,093	19,990	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
KNTC	Kanti Central	6,275	20,587	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
KOGK	Kogi Khang	6,095	19,997	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
YOLU	Yolungma Khang	6,114	20,059	Kanti	Karnali	Mugu
PAL2	Palchung II	6,025	19,767	Palchunghamga	Karnali	Dolpa
PAL3	Palchung III	6,009	19,715	Palchunghamga	Karnali	Dolpa
TNK2	Tankya II	6,291	20,640	Palchunghamga	Karnali	Dolpa
TNK3	Tankya III	6,261	20,541	Palchunghamga	Karnali	Dolpa
TNK4	Tankya IV	6,254	20,518	Palchunghamga	Karnali	Dolpa
FIRE	Firnkof East	6,697	21,972	Saipal	Karnali/Sudurpaschim	Humla/Bajhang
SAIP	Saipal	7,031	23,064	Gurans/Saipal	Karnali/Sudurpaschim	Humla/Bajhang
SAIE	Saipal East	6,882	22,579	Saipal	Karnali/Sudurpaschim	Humla/Bajhang
DGAR	Dhaulagiri	6,633	21,762	Saipal	Sudurpaschim	Bajhang
KARK	Karko	6,015	19,734	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Bajhang
FIRW	Firnkof West	6,745	22,129	Saipal	Sudurpaschim	Bajhang
RAKS	Raksha Urai	6,593	21,630	Urai Lekh	Sudurpaschim	Bajhang
SURM	Surma Sarovar North	6,523	21,401	Surma Saravar Lekh	Sudurpaschim	Bajhang
NAMS	Nampa South	6,580	21,588	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Darchula
APIM	Api	7,132	23,399	Byas-Rishi	Sudurpaschim	Darchula
APIW	Api West	7,100	23,294	Byas-Rishi	Sudurpaschim	Darchula
NAMP	Nampa	6,755	22,162	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Darchula
NAM2	Nampa II	6,700	21,982	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Darchula
LHAY	Lhayul Peak	6,397	20,987	Api Himal	Sudurpaschim	Darchula
BOBA	Bobaye Chuli	6,808	22,336	Byas-Rishi	Sudurpaschim	Darchula/Bajhang
JETH	Jethi Bahurani Chuli	6,850	22,474	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Darchula/Bajhang
KAPC	Rok Kapi (Kap Chuli)	5,467	17,936	Saipal	Sudurpaschim	Darchula/Bajhang
NAM3	Nampa Chuli	7,110	23,327	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Darchula/Bajhang
YOKO	Yoko Pahad	6,401	21,001	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Darchula/Bajhang
GURA	Gurans	6,744	22,126	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Bajhang
YARW	Yarwa	6,644	21,798	Gurans	Sudurpaschim	Darchula/Bajhang
JYAC	Jyachhung	6,388	20,958	Byas-Rishi	Sudurpaschim	Darchula
LASA	Lasa	6,189	20,305	Byas-Rishi	Sudurpaschim	Darchula

The Real Challenge: Remoteness

Perhaps the biggest shift is logistical rather than financial.

Reaching these mountains often involves a flight to Nepalgunj, followed by another flight to remote airstrips such as Simikot or Darchula. From there, climbers may trek for days—sometimes more than a week—before even reaching base camp.

Once on route, infrastructure is minimal. Tea houses are rare, trails are faint, and reliable maps are limited. As a result, teams must rely heavily on self-sufficiency, satellite imagery, and real-time decision-making.

This is not tourism built for convenience. It is exploration built for commitment.

Why This Policy Matters Beyond Climbing

Beyond the climbing community, this policy could reshape how adventure tourism works in Nepal.

By drawing climbers into less-visited regions, the government is creating opportunities for local employment, guiding, and logistics services. At the same time, it helps reduce pressure on overcrowded areas like Everest Base Camp.

More importantly, it restores balance—between famous peaks and forgotten ones, between commercial climbing and genuine exploration.

Final Thoughts: An Open Door, Not an Easy One

Nepal has opened the door wide. What lies beyond, however, is not comfort—it is responsibility, risk, and reward.

For climbers willing to embrace uncertainty, these free-permit peaks offer something increasingly rare in the modern Himalayas: the chance to be early, not late.

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